Greyfriars Church, Edinburgh

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Greyfriars Church, Edinburgh

Greyfriars Church, Edinburgh

Edinburgh makes things easy for history buffs: just follow the soot-streaked stones of the Old Town and you’ll trip over ancient buildings in no time. One such relic is Greyfriars Church—an architectural overachiever that’s been around since the early 1600s and still manages to steal the show.

Work on the church began in 1602, and by 1630, it was officially consecrated, rising from the ruins of an abandoned Franciscan monastery and becoming one of the oldest buildings in the Old Town. Its name is a fashion nod to the original residents—monks in grey robes, otherwise known as the “Grey Friars.” Simple branding, eternal legacy...

In 1718, someone got the bright idea to divide the church with a wall—Old Greyfriars on one side, New Greyfriars on the other—because heaven forbid the Covenanters and Roman Catholics share pew space. Then, in 1845, the roof caught fire (presumably not from divine wrath), destroying much of the interior.

When the church was restored in the mid-19th century, they added stained-glass windows. Beautiful they were? Yes. Controversial? Also, yes—for it was the first time that such windows appeared in a Presbyterian church, and it caused a bit of a scandal. A little later, an organ was added, and once again the purists “clutched their pearls.” In 1929, they finally took down the dividing wall and made peace… at least architecturally.

Oh, and the adjoining graveyard—it's said to be haunted by the ghost of one “Bloody” George Mackenzie. A Lord Advocate responsible for the persecution of the Covenanters, his reputation is as bruised as his victims. They say that if he touches you, you’ll feel it—physically!—left with cuts and bruises... Sleep tight!

Still, nowadays, Greyfriars also doubles as an event venue and low-key fashion runway. It hosts exhibitions, lectures, and drama productions—all performed under those once-scandalous stained glass windows. The onsite museum showcases artifacts found in the area and recounts a comprehensive history of the Covenanters.

And for the wizarding crowd—just behind the Elephant House Café lies Greyfriars Kirkyard, where literary pilgrims flock to pay homage to tombstones that may—or may not—have inspired J.K. Rowling. Among those are Thomas Riddell (ring a bell, Voldemort fans?), Robert Potter, William McGonagall, and even names like Elizabeth Moodie and Margaret Louisa Scrymgeour Wedderburn, suspiciously close to Mad-Eye Moody and Rufus Scrimgeour (the Minister of Magic in the final Harry Potter book). As of August 2019, you can buy a handy Harry Potter-themed gravestone map; the proceeds from sales go toward graveyard upkeep—and probably a bit of Muggle curiosity management, too.

Also, visible from here is George Heriots School, reportedly the template for fictional Hogwarts...

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Greyfriars Church on Map

Sight Name: Greyfriars Church
Sight Location: Edinburgh, Scotland (See walking tours in Edinburgh)
Sight Type: Religious
Guide(s) Containing This Sight:

Walking Tours in Edinburgh, Scotland

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Travel Distance: 3.4 Km or 2.1 Miles
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Tour Duration: 2 Hour(s)
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Tour Duration: 1 Hour(s)
Travel Distance: 1.5 Km or 0.9 Miles
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Tour Duration: 2 Hour(s)
Travel Distance: 2.5 Km or 1.6 Miles

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