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Edinburgh Castle, looming large over the Scottish capital, is the second most visited attraction in the UK (after the Tower of London, which is still number one). The history of Scotland is deeply etched into its ancient stones, making it a timeline in fortress form.

Perched atop Castle Rock (a hardened basaltic plug from an extinct volcano eroded by glaciers), this area has been drawing humans since the 9th millennium BC. The first castle on the site was built in the 12th century by King David I. It remained a royal residence until 1603, when the monarchy packed up and moved to London鈥攑resumably for better weather and indoor plumbing...

Indeed, as a fortress, it was virtually impregnable, except for one major鈥攇eological鈥攄rawback: the basalt rock on which it stands doesn鈥檛 hold water (literally). The 28-meter-deep well inside the fortress was about as useful as a chocolate teapot during a siege. So, when the well ran dry, surrender鈥攐r dehydration鈥攚as the only choice for those inside.

The original castle was mostly destroyed during the Lang Siege of 1573. The only remainder from its early days is St. Margaret鈥檚 Chapel. By the 17th century, it had shifted from royal digs to military barracks, housing troops up to the 1920s.

Presently, the castle hosts the Scottish National War Memorial, the National War Museum, and enough regimental museums to keep military buffs busy till closing time. Don't miss the One O鈥機lock Gun, which is fired daily (except Sundays) at 1 PM with Swiss-watch precision鈥攜es, Edinburgh literally sets its clocks by it...

Also, in the Crown Room, you will see Scotland鈥檚 royal bling鈥攃rown, scepter, and sword鈥攔esting under heavy guard. Period-costumed actors occasionally swoop in to re-enact history with full flair. And if you鈥檙e visiting in August, the Military Tattoo takes over the esplanade with kilts, cannons, and bagpipes galore.

Oh, and in the north-east corner of the esplanade, don't miss that rather unassuming little iron fountain. Called Witches' Well, it marks the spot where, back in the day, many women accused of witchcraft were burned at the stake. Spooky, grim, and sadly true...

The panoramic views are postcard-worthy, the historical nooks are endlessly fascinating, and honestly, it just feels epic to stand where centuries of royals, rebels, and rock-solid drama unfolded.

Pro Tips:
The entry is cheaper, and more importantly, faster, if you book online.
Take a free guided tour 鈥� running every hour. Otherwise, consider grabbing the 拢3 audio guide if you like facts with flair.
Being at the mountain's top, it may get breezy, so definitely bring a windproof jacket if visiting in cold weather.

If you're looking to shop, snack, or relax over a pint while in Edinburgh, the Grassmarket is undoubtedly your one-stop cobbled playground. Once the city鈥檚 bustling horse-and-cattle bazaar which drew crowds between 1477 and 1911, it also doubled as a top place for executions鈥攂ecause, apparently, back in the day, nothing did for the public entertainment more than hooves and hangings...

Keep an eye out for 鈥淭he Shadow of the Gibbet鈥濃�攖he dark paving stones laid out in the form of a gallows near the Covenanter鈥檚 Monument. It鈥檚 a charmingly grim touch, in case you needed a reminder that this scenic square once served as the city鈥檚 unofficial 鈥渄ead-end.鈥� And over to one side of it stands the Bow Well that has been around since 1681.

According to legend, once upon a time, there was a woman named Maggie Dickson, a fishwife who made headlines by dying and... remarkably coming back again. Hanged right here for the alleged murder of her child, she stunned everyone when she unexpectedly woke up en route to the cemetery. Apparently, in those days, the 鈥渦ntil dead鈥� provision didn鈥檛 quite yet settle in the sentence proceedings (legal loophole of the day...). So, once hanged, her debt was considered paid and Maggie was set free. Today, you can toast her improbable resurrection at Maggie Dickson鈥檚 pub, conveniently located on the very spot where she was hanged but miraculously survived the ordeal.

Fast forward a few centuries and the Grassmarket swapped gallows for gastropubs. A formerly scruffy patch of the city, it became a magnet for students in the 1980s鈥攍ikely lured by cheap beer and late-night kebabs. Nowadays gentrified, it鈥檚 all terraces, boutique shops, vintage finds, and indie charm.

Quirky, safe and interesting, this area is a great destination for those who need a regular change of scenery, complete with a variety of retail and dining opportunities to suit every wallet and taste, and enough character to fill a tartan suitcase.

Hot tip:
Check out Carniv脿le Vintage for a wonderful selection of fun vintage clothing, Tasty Buns for pastry and coffee, Hula Juice Bar for guilt-free fuel, and Mary鈥檚 Milk Bar for glorious indulgence. And when you're done, wind your way up Victoria Street and onto the Royal Mile (further up)鈥攂ecause one eccentric shopping spree always deserves another...

If you would like to see a real part of ancient Edinburgh, head over to Heriot Place where you will find one of the few remaining stretches of the Telfer Wall鈥攁 genuine piece of the city鈥檚 old fortification system.

Back in the day, Edinburgh鈥檚 Old Town had not just one or two, but three defensive walls. The first was a bit half-hearted鈥攎ore like a polite suggestion than real protection, securing the area just around the High Street. After the Battle of Flodden, the locals realized that other than this part of their town, nothing else was protected, and so, in 1513, they built the Flodden Wall. Unfortunately, as the 1600s rolled around, that wall started showing the signs of ageing, shoddy workmanship, and proved a bit undersized for the rapidly growing town. Thus, in 1630, the Telfer Wall was added, as the last line of defense, running south of the Flodden Wall.

Sadly, not much of those once-mighty walls remain today鈥攅ither demolished or politely erased by time. The gateways鈥攐therwise called 鈥減orts,鈥� (because Edinburgh likes to keep things slightly confusing)鈥攁re long gone. But thanks to the Heriot Society, you can still admire a preserved corner tower from the Flodden Wall and a nice long stretch of the Telfer Wall still standing on Heriot Place.

During excavations at the base of the wall in 1850, archaeologists hit the jackpot鈥攁 well-preserved Roman bronze coin, dating back to the time of Constantine the Great. Further excavations revealed two coffins fashioned out of oak trunks; the exterior of the coffins was rough wood, but the interiors contained the head and the arms of a man and a woman.

Between the coffins, the skull and antlers of an enormous deer were discovered, along with a spearhead made of horn. The burial site is thought to date back to the 3rd century AD. The remains of the humans disintegrated when they attempted to retrieve them, but the deer鈥檚 skull was intact and today is proudly displayed in the Royal Scottish Museum (because, indeed, in Edinburgh, the deer enjoy rather good survival rates...).

McEwan Hall is a building that鈥檚 throughout its history been called by critics (with a flair for snobbery) pretty much everything, from 鈥渙stentatious鈥� and 鈥渂ad taste鈥� to 鈥渕ajestic鈥�. Still, you don鈥檛 have to take any of these words for it. Instead, go see it for yourself and decide if it鈥檚, indeed, architectural brilliance or just a brewer鈥檚 over-the-top vanity project in stone...

Back in the 1890s, the University of Edinburgh politely asked the City Council for cash to build a proper graduation hall. The Council鈥攅ver frugal鈥攄eclined, insisting the students didn鈥檛 need one. At that point, William McEwan, a master brewer and lover of lager, and evidently not one to pass up the chance to slap his name on a landmark, offered to fund the entire project鈥攐n one modest condition: it had to be called McEwan Hall. Thus, the deal was sealed.

Designed by Sir Robert Rowand Anderson in a grand Italian Renaissance style, the D-shaped structure was completed in 1897. On the outside, it's all restraint and dignity, with a semi-domed roof and a rather sober fa莽ade. But step inside, and things get a bit more... expressive.

The most remarkable feature about the interior is the double helix stairway that leads to the semi-circular galleries. One stairway is entered from the inside; the other from the outside鈥攁 sort of Scotland鈥檚 answer to architectural one-upmanship. It's the kind of design flourish that whispers, 鈥淛ust because we can....鈥�

Indeed, it is to the interior鈥攐r, precisely, the lavishly decorated walls within the tiered auditorium, painted by William Palin鈥攖hat this building owes its bad taste reputation. Here, alongside the depictions of academic disciplines and grand allegories of Knowledge and Virtue, one of the walls鈥攊n the Grove of Academe鈥攜ou can see the image of McEwan himself. With his smug, 鈥渉olier-than-thou鈥� expression, he presents the hall to none other than Minerva, the Roman goddess of wisdom, arts, and strategic warfare.

Furthermore, McEwan got an honorary doctorate in 1898, a year after the building was commissioned. And, of course, some unkind tongues promptly suggested that he built the hall for the sole purpose of 鈥渇urthering his education without having to get his head out of the ale barrel鈥�. Well, who knows...

If you're the type who likes museums with a dash of guts鈥攓uite literally鈥攖hen Surgeons鈥� Hall Museums in Edinburgh will cut right to the chase. Owned by the Royal College of Surgeons of Edinburgh (which has been around since 1505, so they know their way around a scalpel), this institution houses three wonderfully macabre attractions under one historic roof, namely: the Wohl Pathology Museum, the History of Surgery Museum, and the Dental Collection. Yes, even teeth get their time to shine鈥攐r clatter...

The whole grisly affair began in 1699 when the College put out a call for 鈥渘atural and artificial curiosities鈥濃�攂asically the 17th-century equivalent of asking the public for weird stuff. And did they ever deliver! By the 1800s, the collection ballooned thanks to legendary surgeons like Sir Charles Bell and John Barclay, who clearly never left home without something dissectible in their satchels.

Though it started originally as a teaching tool for budding medics, Surgeons鈥� Hall eventually flung its doors open to the public in 1832, making it one of Scotland鈥檚 oldest museums. Inside, you'll find enough bone, tissue, and surgical oddities to make even the toughest stomach do a double-take. The Wohl Pathology Museum, in particular, boasts one of the world鈥檚 largest surgical pathology collections鈥攂ecause who doesn鈥檛 love a preserved organ with a backstory?

But it鈥檚 not all preserved spleens and vintage scalpels. Today鈥檚 exhibits come with interactive computer simulations, films, and user-friendly text panels, too, that won鈥檛 require a medical degree to understand. So, you can rest assured to leave entertained, enlightened, and possibly reevaluating your next dentist appointment...

Slide down the southern edge of Edinburgh鈥檚 Old Town and you鈥檒l find yourself on Chambers Street鈥攁 stone-clad corridor of history, science, and a bit of Victorian swagger. The street owes its name to William Chambers of Glenormiston, a former Lord Provost with a flair for civic improvement. In fact, he鈥檚 still hanging around in the form of a bronze statue, standing proudly in the middle of the street, keeping an eye on the comings and goings...

Indeed, Chambers Street is a parade of architectural charm, headlined by the Old College of the University of Edinburgh. Built in 1791鈥攂efore the street itself even existed鈥攊t now houses the Talbot Rice Gallery, where you can flit between the classical Torrie Collection of Old Masters in the Georgian Gallery, temporary exhibitions in the White Room, and who-knows-what experimental art projects in the Round Room.

Just across the way, the Royal Museum is ready to impress with its glass-and-iron grandeur from 1888. Here, you鈥檒l meet the Wylam Dilly, a steam locomotive dating back to 1813, and get a family-friendly dose of hands-on learning at Adam House, where the University of Edinburgh鈥檚 鈥淒iscover Science鈥� experience blends fun and fact in equal measure.

But the real heavyweight on Chambers Street is the Museum of Scotland. Among its exhibits are Pictish stones, glittering Celtic brooches, and the formidable Saint Ninian鈥檚 Isle Treasure. You鈥檒l also find 11 of the legendary Lewis Chessmen, a collection of 12th-century medieval chess pieces carved from walrus ivory and whale teeth (the rest are kept in the British Museum in London), and "The Maiden"鈥攁n early Scottish guillotine that once lopped heads with grim efficiency. And yes, that Dolly sheep is here too鈥攖he world鈥檚 first cloned mammal, taxidermied into immortality. Science, style, and a dash of the macabre鈥攚elcome to Chambers Street!

Right off Chambers Street and sidling up to George IV Bridge, the National Museum of Scotland seems like an entire universe cleverly disguised as one building. As the country鈥檚 crown jewel of curiosity, it houses everything from ancient artefacts, science and technology to Elton John鈥檚 finest feathered fashion. Indeed, sequins and sarcophagi under one roof...

The museum, in its current all-in-one glory, came to life in 2006 when the Royal Museum and the Museum of Scotland decided to merge (believing they鈥檇 work better as roommates). Having linked internally by utilizing some repurposed storage space, they created the stunning Grand Gallery鈥攁 light-drenched cathedral of wonder, stretching from basement to rooftop. The vaulted Entrance Hall alone is a whopping 1,400 square metres of pure 鈥渨hoa.鈥�

Wandering into the Grand Gallery, you鈥檙e bound to find some big stuff鈥攍iterally! Oversized treasures too large for the regular exhibits鈥攍ike the 20-metre-tall Window on the World, a vertical buffet of 800+ oddities鈥攃amp out here in joyful disarray. On its sides, Scotland shows off its brainpower in the form of 鈥淒iscoveries鈥� made by local inventors.

It鈥檚 a feast for all ages and attention spans. One moment you鈥檙e peering at ancient Egyptian mummies (CT scans included, like historical X-ray vision, revealing everything that is hidden under their wrappings), and the next you鈥檙e staring at something extravagant that once belonged to a glam rock legend. The Natural History floor, meanwhile, is a dino-lover鈥檚 paradise, complete with extinct beasts and bones the size of furniture.

In 2011, they added 16 shiny new galleries, just to keep things fresh鈥攔esulting in over 8,000 original objects awaiting your awe. Bonus points is that the entry is completely free. So, you can marvel at the mysteries of the universe and still afford a snack from the on-site caf茅 & bistro, if you are feeling peckish or just want to take a break from exploring.

By far not a typical museum鈥攂ut rather an 鈥渆verythingium鈥濃�攊t鈥檚 a real treat both inside and out, especially following its hefty 拢47-million refurbishment and extension. Definitely more than just a place to learn鈥攂ut a place to linger...

Top Tips:
Get there early. Start on the top floor and descend like an archaeologist of modern wonder. There are some great 'hands-on' exhibits, so take your time if you are with kids. And if you're feeling fancy, book a private guided tour. Just check ahead for any exhibits that may cost extra鈥攖hey鈥檙e rare, and usually a bargain.

Ah yes鈥攏othing tugs at the heartstrings quite like a tale of undying love and loyalty鈥� especially if it involves a scruffy little dog. Meet Greyfriars Bobby, the Skye Terrier and Edinburgh鈥檚 most beloved four-legged legend, immortalized in bronze at the south end of George IV Bridge (just a tail鈥檚 wag from the entrance to Greyfriars Kirkyard).

Now, Bobby鈥檚 origin story is a bit fuzzy (pun fully intended here). Some say he belonged to a kindly policeman named John Grey; others claim that he was just a clever stray adopted by a 鈥渂obby鈥� during his beat (hence the name). Either way, Bobby and John were inseparable for two years鈥� until 1858, when John died of tuberculosis, and Bobby found himself alone in the world.

Whether Grey lived by himself or his widow kicked Bobby out when her husband died remains unclear, but this is where the tear ducts really kick in. Without a home, Bobby made one for himself鈥攐n his master鈥檚 grave. Indeed, rather than chase squirrels or sniff lampposts like a normal dog, he trotted over to Greyfriars Kirkyard and stayed there鈥攆or fourteen years!鈥攗ntil his own death. Through rain, sleet, snow, and the occasional curious visitor, Bobby stood guard with a loyalty that would put most humans to shame.

Usually, dogs weren鈥檛 exactly welcomed in church cemeteries, but Bobby had charm. The caretaker took pity on him and fed him, locals left snacks, and even William Chambers, the Lord Provost of Edinburgh, chipped in to pay Bobby鈥檚 yearly dog license, without which he would definitely have been destroyed as a stray.

When Bobby passed on in 1872, church rules said 鈥渘o dogs in holy dirt,鈥� so he was laid to rest just outside the gates. A local philanthropist lady had a statue erected in his honour, complete with two drinking fountains: one for people, and one for thirsty pups.

Over the years, Bobby鈥檚 story has had many versions and inspired numerous books, films, and tall tales鈥攜ou name it. His breed would change depending on who told the tale, but Bobby鈥檚 spirit always remained the same鈥攍oyal to his master beyond the grave, and always legendary.

Tip:
Wander into Greyfriars Kirkyard right behind the statue for a dose of Edinburgh鈥檚 weirder history. Attention, Potterheads!鈥擱umour has it that Lord Voldemort鈥檚 gravestone is in there somewhere, too. Loyalty and dark magic, all in one stop...

Edinburgh makes things easy for history buffs: just follow the soot-streaked stones of the Old Town and you鈥檒l trip over ancient buildings in no time. One such relic is Greyfriars Church鈥攁n architectural overachiever that鈥檚 been around since the early 1600s and still manages to steal the show.

Work on the church began in 1602, and by 1630, it was officially consecrated, rising from the ruins of an abandoned Franciscan monastery and becoming one of the oldest buildings in the Old Town. Its name is a fashion nod to the original residents鈥攎onks in grey robes, otherwise known as the 鈥淕rey Friars.鈥� Simple branding, eternal legacy...

In 1718, someone got the bright idea to divide the church with a wall鈥擮ld Greyfriars on one side, New Greyfriars on the other鈥攂ecause heaven forbid the Covenanters and Roman Catholics share pew space. Then, in 1845, the roof caught fire (presumably not from divine wrath), destroying much of the interior.

When the church was restored in the mid-19th century, they added stained-glass windows. Beautiful they were? Yes. Controversial? Also, yes鈥攆or it was the first time that such windows appeared in a Presbyterian church, and it caused a bit of a scandal. A little later, an organ was added, and once again the purists 鈥渃lutched their pearls.鈥� In 1929, they finally took down the dividing wall and made peace鈥� at least architecturally.

Oh, and the adjoining graveyard鈥攊t's said to be haunted by the ghost of one 鈥淏loody鈥� George Mackenzie. A Lord Advocate responsible for the persecution of the Covenanters, his reputation is as bruised as his victims. They say that if he touches you, you鈥檒l feel it鈥攑hysically!鈥攍eft with cuts and bruises... Sleep tight!

Still, nowadays, Greyfriars also doubles as an event venue and low-key fashion runway. It hosts exhibitions, lectures, and drama productions鈥攁ll performed under those once-scandalous stained glass windows. The onsite museum showcases artifacts found in the area and recounts a comprehensive history of the Covenanters.

And for the wizarding crowd鈥攋ust behind the Elephant House Caf茅 lies Greyfriars Kirkyard, where literary pilgrims flock to pay homage to tombstones that may鈥攐r may not鈥攈ave inspired J.K. Rowling. Among those are Thomas Riddell (ring a bell, Voldemort fans?), Robert Potter, William McGonagall, and even names like Elizabeth Moodie and Margaret Louisa Scrymgeour Wedderburn, suspiciously close to Mad-Eye Moody and Rufus Scrimgeour (the Minister of Magic in the final Harry Potter book). As of August 2019, you can buy a handy Harry Potter-themed gravestone map; the proceeds from sales go toward graveyard upkeep鈥攁nd probably a bit of Muggle curiosity management, too.

Also, visible from here is George Heriots School, reportedly the template for fictional Hogwarts...

If you鈥檝e ever wanted to sip a cappuccino where magic once brewed鈥攓uite literally鈥攖hen The Elephant House might just be your pilgrimage stop. Open since 1995, this unassuming caf茅 earned worldwide fame not just for its tea and coffee (which are excellent, by the way), but for serving as a launchpad for a certain bespectacled boy wizard. Yes, J.K. Rowling once holed up in the back room here, penning early chapters of Harry Potter while eyeing up the brooding silhouette of Edinburgh Castle. Talk about dramatic inspiration...

But Rowling wasn鈥檛 the only literary mind to haunt these elephant-adorned halls. Other patrons like Ian Rankin, the mastermind behind the gritty Rebus detective novels, and Alexander McCall Smith, author of The No.1 Ladies' Detective Agency and 44 Scotland Street fame, have also warmed the seats here. Apparently, there鈥檚 something about the mix of caffeine, castle views, and atmospheric chatter that gets the creative juices flowing.

So, whether you鈥檙e nursing dreams of becoming the next literary sensation or just need a sturdy espresso before wandering into Edinburgh鈥檚 medieval maze鈥攄rop by The Elephant House. Who knows? That scribble on your napkin might just be the next bestseller...

Perhaps the most photographed location in all of Edinburgh, Victoria Street鈥攚ith its gentle curve, candy-coloured shopfronts, and fairytale charm鈥攊s the Old Town icon that throughout the decades has graced everything from tourist postcards to glossy TV ads. Indeed, if streets had agents, this one would have been booked solid.

Built between 1829 and 1834, Victoria Street wasn鈥檛 always the whimsical rainbow we know today, though. Credit鈥攐r creative blame for it, rather鈥攇oes to Thomas Hamilton, a mastermind behind Edinburgh鈥檚 numerous architectural wonders, better known for his love affair with all things neoclassical. On this occasion, however, he deviated from his habitual neoclassical stamp, being told to create something mimicking the Old Flemish style. For this purpose, many of the area's old buildings were torn down. The result of such a dramatic medieval makeover was the appearance of arches, lining the new terrace, which now house some of the city鈥檚 most charming little shops.

And then came the magic. In recent years, Victoria Street鈥攁long with its downhill cousin, the West Bow鈥攈as gained notoriety as possible real-world prototypes for none other than Diagon Alley, featured in the Harry Potter books (you know, wizards, magic wands, and all that...).

Given that Edinburgh was home turf for JK Rowling while she penned her famous boy-wizard saga, it鈥檚 not a stretch to imagine Victoria Street as an inspiration for the ever-so fabulous wizard market after all. Packed with the cobbled stones, higgledy-piggledy medley of vibrant buildings, quirky boutiques, and a general air of eccentricity, it practically shouts Diagon Alley. So, whether you're here for the architecture, the shopping, or the spellcasting vibes, just know鈥攖his street has layers, arches, and more than a dash of enchantment...